Antananarivo, or Tana, as the Malagasy generally refer to their capital, is worth a day or two of exploration for its magical mix of French colonial architecture and tropical backdrop. The Zoma market, one of largest in the world, is a must-see, as is the Rova (Royal Village).

Just three hours or so from the capital is the Antasibe-Mantadia National Park, whose lush montane forest is famed as the home of the yodelling Indri, a large tailless lemur that resembles a panda thanks to its black and white fur. Another popular national park is Montagne d’Ambre, situated at the northern tip of the island and criss-crossed by broad trails which cut through the temperate montane forest.

Most popular of all is Perinet, where some of Madagascar’s best guides are on hand to help track down the nine species of lemur found within the park. The Berenty Reserve is the best place to experience Madagascar’s famous ‘spiny forest’, a peculiar world of giant cactus-like trees that provide a refuge for ring-tailed lemurs.

One of Madagascar’s newest and most challenging national parks is Marojejy, where adventurous travellers are rewarded with a showcase of biodiversity. A wide range of different habitats here support dozens of unusual species of reptiles, birds and amphibians, along with the rare silky sifaka lemur.

For the largest remaining tracts of virgin rainforest, head for the Masoala National Park, a tropical wonderland of hanging vines, giant-buttressed rainforest trees and babbling brooks that run down to white-sand beaches.